Listen, I know crickets are good luck and all that... but I still don't want them in my bed... Sigh. Oh, Jamkhed...
Thursday, April 21, 2011
last week in delhi
Namaskar! It's been a crazy two weeks, and I'm behind in blogging. I've been back in Jamkhed for about a week and a half now on my Independent Study Project. I left Delhi on 4/10, last Sunday. This post is about my last week in Delhi before ISP, 4/3/to 4/9.
Last post left off after our flight got back to Delhi from Pune after our week long stay in Jamkhed on CRHP's campus. My last week in Delhi marked the end of my health class, my field studies class, and of Hindi, and it was also my last official week with my homestay family! I've only been away a week and a half but I already miss them very much. Fortunately I will see them at the end of the program.
The Saturday that we got back we mostly relaxed and took a walk around the neighborhood. The Guhas had a visitor all week named Suhita visiting from Kolkata to help with the interior designing of my homestay Dad's new office. Suhita and Jayoti and I took my saree that I bought over the trip in Jamkhed to the tailor in our neighborhood, where for about $9 USD I had a silk/cotton blouse made to my size from the fabric I bought, had the saree lined, and had another kurti (shirt) mended where it had a big rip (from Coco, I suspect). It was nice to be back in our family setting again.
Sunday I had planned to go to the Crafts Museum in Delhi but the best laid plans... well, it was nice to relax and catch up on some sleep. That afternoon we all piled into the car to go to a lake... as with many things on this trip, I didn't really know what this would mean but was excited nonetheless. We headed out in the car listening to Shakira and Dan Seals and the Carpenters (always a surprising mix to hear from my host parents' speakers but no complaints here - that's globalization for you!) as we sped out of the city and suddenly Delhi fell away and we were in the countryside. Well, "countryside." We passed through places that are undergoing weird transitions from village to city, and are having serious identity crisis issues. We passed a place where they keep floats covered in instruments for weddings, and bands dressed up for the night's festivities. We asked for directions a few times, and unfailingly the first person you ask stops whatever they are doing and makes a serious effort to help you out.. this is true in every place I've been. The asker usually doesn't even give the askee a shukriya or dhanyavaad of thanks because it's almost insulting.. because of COURSE they're going to help you, why would you say thank you?! At least, that's how this particular form of Indian courtesy has been explained to me; others may disagree.
We ended up at a big park/relaxing lake area. We went out on paddle boats, with Molly-ji, Jayoti, Arko and I manning the one and Avijit, Suhita, and Aura in the other. I was definitely not dressed for the occasion and had to awkwardly hold my skirt down while we were paddling away from the crowded shore. Awkward...
As the sun was dropping quickly, we finally got our family picture snapped and got back in the car. My host dad has the copy of it, which I hope to get from him soon. We drove back into Delhi on a highway which for a fleeting moment made me feel like we were on I83... not so ;)
Monday through Wednesday were sort-of a blur... it was the wrap up for our classes, which meant a rush to turn in all of our assignments and study for our Hindi written and oral exams. The exams were fine and there really isn't anything too notable to report... to be honest, while I'm glad the test is over, I do miss the exciting feeling of making those connections and cracking the code of a new language. Since in Jamkhed people know Hindi but speak Marathi conversationally, we aren't really getting any kind of reinforcement (one of the reasons why they wanted us to stay in North India for the project - but we decided Jamkhed was worth it - and it is). ;)
Monday after school (Hindi review and wrap-up), Drew and I went to Lajpat Nagar market to look for suitcases. The pickings were pretty slim, but I bargained for a purchased a pretty large rolling suitcase for Rs 300 ($7). Score.
Tuesday, after final Hindi review, our class got to meet with a director from the Office of the Prime Minister of India. Getting his take on things we have seen on our trip was, I think, the perfect way to end our Health and Human Rights seminar. When he started talking about how greta it is that we are getting a handle on corruption, I brought up a woman from the farm in Jamkhed, one of Rutna's friends, who requires 2nd line HIV drugs to keep her alive and healthy. 2nd line drugs are extremely expensive, so in order to prevent a government health subcenter that is close to her home from selling the drugs in a corrupt black market, they instead require her and all other 2nd line HIV patients to go all the way to Mumbai (9+ hour drive) to receive treatment. Obviously, this does not work out, and is basically a death sentence to HIV patients because unless they leave their families and miraculously find a job that will hire an HIV patient in Mumbai, they are completely out of luck. CRHP eats the cost of transporting her to Mumbai and sends her with a chaperone for protection, and does so for her every 10-15 days for her medicines. When I told the director this story, and asked why it was that the punishment for corruption now directly disadvantaged the poor and sick, and not those responsible or at risk for corruption, I didn't really get an answer. While he was a nice enough guy and felt badly for her, he said that in infrastructure to get the meds safely to her just didn't exist. I held my tongue after that one because I'm not in India to be on the vanguard of social change... but it was so frustrating to have a bureaucrat tell me that the infrastructure that he has built up in India is good enough for him to brag about but not good enough to save this woman's life.
After school, Suhita and I went out to the Tibetan Market and Connaught Place where I got a bunch of souvenirs for people at home.. and a giant bedcover! It looks like about 473892465423 80's prom dresses were cut up and sewn back together again, and then beaded over. I had walked by this thing, and the woman selling it quoted me Rs 3500 (about $75 USD). Suhita turned on the dramatics and scoffed away, and I got the vibe to follow suit if I wanted a shot at getting it. We walked a few stalls away from the woman with the bedcover, and she followed us down the street, wailing (for lack of a better word) about the quality of the bedcover and how I should run to an ATM and she should come with me and yadda yadda yadda. I told her I wouldn't pay more than Rs 1000 ($22). Surprisingly, she said "ok!" which is never a good sign, because it means the seller is probably still making a huge profit if they agree to your haggling that quickly. We walked back and passed by the woman with the bedcover and she threw a fit. Halfway down the street Suhita said "I bet I could get her to Rs 800!" We walked back and Suhita went on this long Hindi explanation that I would catch snippets of here and there "She's a stuuuudent, you're ripping her off, etc etc" was the basic translation. The woman agreed to Rs 800 (about $18), and ... I bought it. However, when I handed her Rs 1000 and she gave me the cover, she refused to give me change and made quick business of getting her involved with the next customer. We threw a fit too (I can't believe I'm saying it like that, but it's just how it's done here.. there is a different buying etiquette, and whoever can make the other, buyer or seller, feel like more of a cheapskate, wins), but in the end she didn't cough up the Rs 200 that she owed me (about $4). The afternoon was only getting hotter and we were getting swallowed up by the thickening crowds standing out on the street arguing, so we caved and went home.
I laid it out on the bed and Jayoti told me she thought I got a great deal!
Wednesday, unfortunately Molly-ji was ill and we had to head in to the clinic early in the morning. I made up my test on Thursday, finally finished with Hindi, and came home and relaxed with my homestay family. I got a pedicure and enjoyed one of my last home-cooked meals for a while.
Friday we had no school! Suhita took us to Sarojini Nagar where I did the best shopping of my life. I bought a few shirts for people at home for Rs 60 each ($1.50) and a couple of other things. It was a crazy, crazy, place... I took this picture of Molly-ji and Suhita when we tried to make it up a street that had been excavated but was attempting to still function amidst the rubble (and this is when the crowd was less!):
Suhita helped me find a saree petticoat for my freshly tailored saree, and I picked up random things like earrings in the classic North Indian style to go with it. The petticoat, which is basically a floor length plum colored skirt, was about 90 cents USD.
Friday night, SIT threw us a party! It was such a good time. We had pizza from Domino's and *GASP* beer and had a dance party. Since we won't see one another for a few weeks until the end of the independent study phase is over, it was nice to let loose with everyone. We also taught Bhavna-ji and Gotham-ji flipcup, a drinking game that I can now say I have played on two continents. And they were good at it. I don't think they really understood what they were getting themselves into when we said that we wanted to teach them a game...
Lic Lollees are the fantastic creations that I am convinced Shiva himself created in his own image and sent unto earth from Hindu holy lands. Our particular favorites are the Raspberry-Mango bars, but I am also a huge fan of Mango Bars, because they are filled with vanilla ice cream. Molly and I got Lic-Lollees pretty much every night after dinner this last week, and the guy at the milk stand got a huge kick out of it every night. Most nights Aura joined us for the short walk through the neighborhood, too. I will miss Lic Lollees and the ritual with Molly-ji and Aura very much :)
Saturday Molly and I went to school for our last meetings with Azim-ji before leaving for our ISPs, and then headed to Gandhi Smriti, the place where Gandhi spent his last days and the grounds upon which he was assassinated:
The museum was extremely well done and intimate... there were no guards, it was free, and not crowded at all. I felt like I got a good feel for his life mission and final days. Though he is both one of the most loved and most hated in India, he no doubt holds the hope of many, and played an extremely important role in India's history, the history of the world, and the entire doctrine and model of civil disobedience and nonviolent protest.
Later, we met Suhita again at Sarojini Nagar to look around a bit, and I bought a few more souvenirs. In two days of shopping, I don't think I spent more than $15 USD though I bought enough to get pretty much everyone on my list.
That night, with finally the time to commit to learning how to wear it and the necessary parts all assembled and tailored, I tried on my saree! Well, more like my host mom put it on me... but Jayoti, if you're reading this, I promise I was paying attention ;) It's a lot harder to wear than I expected, and carries some serious weight... but I am really happy with it and plan on wearing it to our final banquet at the end of the program.
For our last supper all together at their house, we had... sandwiches. I know. I couldn't handle my own excitement. With chicken salad and pickles (they weren't dill pickles, no, but they were still delicious). Thank you host parents if you're reading this, for appeasing my western food cravings, though your rice and dal rocks, Jayoti, and you know it ;)
That night I packed like a wild woman, throwing clothes in the washer, packing up two other bags that I left at their house (should be interesting getting things home... whoops) and getting all of my stuff out of the guest room. My host dad occasionally peeked his head in the room to sing John Denver's "Leavin' on a Jet Plane" which definitely didn't help the sad situation... as soon as he got to "already I'm so lonesome.." all of us said "ahhhhhh enough!" in unison hahaha. In the morning at 7am I said goodbye to Jayoti, and even thought I was pretty sure I'd be staying with them at the end of the program, it was impossible to not let some of the waterworks fly... they have been amazing host parents, and have really involved us in their lives and let us into their world at Sarvodaya Enclave. I miss you guys and can't wait to see you in a few weeks :) I walked to get the shuttle for the airport, and Suhita came running out of the house to also say goodbye. Talk about waterworks...
And here I am in Jamkhed. At one point this week, Aura said to me that she felt "hardly like" i was "an American at all anymore," because, "well, you're just so close to me now." In addition to completely melting my heart, it made me think... I told her that I think it is less that I have dropped the American but more, on some small, small level, developed the Indian, or at least the appreciation for my Indian side.. I love India, and while I do miss home, and my family, and my friends, and Tufts, my Indian side is happy here. My Indian side dives right into food without waiting for the fork; it picks up handfuls of Holi color and smears it in my host dad's face with a laugh. It gets angry at rickshaw wallas who quote the price at three times the amount it should be to get from point A to point B, and loudly attempts to embarrass them in Hindi in front of a crowd of people. My Indian side still scoffs at injustice just like my American side would when we visit hospitals or have a guest speaker talk about the problems in this great country, but my Indian side also understands the great barriers to relief and that India runs at its own pace and on its own book of standards. When I leave, my American side will cry at the departure from adventure, but my Indian side will understand that that's the way it goes...
Love,
Laura
Last post left off after our flight got back to Delhi from Pune after our week long stay in Jamkhed on CRHP's campus. My last week in Delhi marked the end of my health class, my field studies class, and of Hindi, and it was also my last official week with my homestay family! I've only been away a week and a half but I already miss them very much. Fortunately I will see them at the end of the program.
The Saturday that we got back we mostly relaxed and took a walk around the neighborhood. The Guhas had a visitor all week named Suhita visiting from Kolkata to help with the interior designing of my homestay Dad's new office. Suhita and Jayoti and I took my saree that I bought over the trip in Jamkhed to the tailor in our neighborhood, where for about $9 USD I had a silk/cotton blouse made to my size from the fabric I bought, had the saree lined, and had another kurti (shirt) mended where it had a big rip (from Coco, I suspect). It was nice to be back in our family setting again.
Sunday I had planned to go to the Crafts Museum in Delhi but the best laid plans... well, it was nice to relax and catch up on some sleep. That afternoon we all piled into the car to go to a lake... as with many things on this trip, I didn't really know what this would mean but was excited nonetheless. We headed out in the car listening to Shakira and Dan Seals and the Carpenters (always a surprising mix to hear from my host parents' speakers but no complaints here - that's globalization for you!) as we sped out of the city and suddenly Delhi fell away and we were in the countryside. Well, "countryside." We passed through places that are undergoing weird transitions from village to city, and are having serious identity crisis issues. We passed a place where they keep floats covered in instruments for weddings, and bands dressed up for the night's festivities. We asked for directions a few times, and unfailingly the first person you ask stops whatever they are doing and makes a serious effort to help you out.. this is true in every place I've been. The asker usually doesn't even give the askee a shukriya or dhanyavaad of thanks because it's almost insulting.. because of COURSE they're going to help you, why would you say thank you?! At least, that's how this particular form of Indian courtesy has been explained to me; others may disagree.
We ended up at a big park/relaxing lake area. We went out on paddle boats, with Molly-ji, Jayoti, Arko and I manning the one and Avijit, Suhita, and Aura in the other. I was definitely not dressed for the occasion and had to awkwardly hold my skirt down while we were paddling away from the crowded shore. Awkward...
This is why I do not trust camels:
Aura took these:
As the sun was dropping quickly, we finally got our family picture snapped and got back in the car. My host dad has the copy of it, which I hope to get from him soon. We drove back into Delhi on a highway which for a fleeting moment made me feel like we were on I83... not so ;)
Monday through Wednesday were sort-of a blur... it was the wrap up for our classes, which meant a rush to turn in all of our assignments and study for our Hindi written and oral exams. The exams were fine and there really isn't anything too notable to report... to be honest, while I'm glad the test is over, I do miss the exciting feeling of making those connections and cracking the code of a new language. Since in Jamkhed people know Hindi but speak Marathi conversationally, we aren't really getting any kind of reinforcement (one of the reasons why they wanted us to stay in North India for the project - but we decided Jamkhed was worth it - and it is). ;)
Monday after school (Hindi review and wrap-up), Drew and I went to Lajpat Nagar market to look for suitcases. The pickings were pretty slim, but I bargained for a purchased a pretty large rolling suitcase for Rs 300 ($7). Score.
Tuesday, after final Hindi review, our class got to meet with a director from the Office of the Prime Minister of India. Getting his take on things we have seen on our trip was, I think, the perfect way to end our Health and Human Rights seminar. When he started talking about how greta it is that we are getting a handle on corruption, I brought up a woman from the farm in Jamkhed, one of Rutna's friends, who requires 2nd line HIV drugs to keep her alive and healthy. 2nd line drugs are extremely expensive, so in order to prevent a government health subcenter that is close to her home from selling the drugs in a corrupt black market, they instead require her and all other 2nd line HIV patients to go all the way to Mumbai (9+ hour drive) to receive treatment. Obviously, this does not work out, and is basically a death sentence to HIV patients because unless they leave their families and miraculously find a job that will hire an HIV patient in Mumbai, they are completely out of luck. CRHP eats the cost of transporting her to Mumbai and sends her with a chaperone for protection, and does so for her every 10-15 days for her medicines. When I told the director this story, and asked why it was that the punishment for corruption now directly disadvantaged the poor and sick, and not those responsible or at risk for corruption, I didn't really get an answer. While he was a nice enough guy and felt badly for her, he said that in infrastructure to get the meds safely to her just didn't exist. I held my tongue after that one because I'm not in India to be on the vanguard of social change... but it was so frustrating to have a bureaucrat tell me that the infrastructure that he has built up in India is good enough for him to brag about but not good enough to save this woman's life.
After school, Suhita and I went out to the Tibetan Market and Connaught Place where I got a bunch of souvenirs for people at home.. and a giant bedcover! It looks like about 473892465423 80's prom dresses were cut up and sewn back together again, and then beaded over. I had walked by this thing, and the woman selling it quoted me Rs 3500 (about $75 USD). Suhita turned on the dramatics and scoffed away, and I got the vibe to follow suit if I wanted a shot at getting it. We walked a few stalls away from the woman with the bedcover, and she followed us down the street, wailing (for lack of a better word) about the quality of the bedcover and how I should run to an ATM and she should come with me and yadda yadda yadda. I told her I wouldn't pay more than Rs 1000 ($22). Surprisingly, she said "ok!" which is never a good sign, because it means the seller is probably still making a huge profit if they agree to your haggling that quickly. We walked back and passed by the woman with the bedcover and she threw a fit. Halfway down the street Suhita said "I bet I could get her to Rs 800!" We walked back and Suhita went on this long Hindi explanation that I would catch snippets of here and there "She's a stuuuudent, you're ripping her off, etc etc" was the basic translation. The woman agreed to Rs 800 (about $18), and ... I bought it. However, when I handed her Rs 1000 and she gave me the cover, she refused to give me change and made quick business of getting her involved with the next customer. We threw a fit too (I can't believe I'm saying it like that, but it's just how it's done here.. there is a different buying etiquette, and whoever can make the other, buyer or seller, feel like more of a cheapskate, wins), but in the end she didn't cough up the Rs 200 that she owed me (about $4). The afternoon was only getting hotter and we were getting swallowed up by the thickening crowds standing out on the street arguing, so we caved and went home.
I laid it out on the bed and Jayoti told me she thought I got a great deal!
Wednesday, unfortunately Molly-ji was ill and we had to head in to the clinic early in the morning. I made up my test on Thursday, finally finished with Hindi, and came home and relaxed with my homestay family. I got a pedicure and enjoyed one of my last home-cooked meals for a while.
Friday we had no school! Suhita took us to Sarojini Nagar where I did the best shopping of my life. I bought a few shirts for people at home for Rs 60 each ($1.50) and a couple of other things. It was a crazy, crazy, place... I took this picture of Molly-ji and Suhita when we tried to make it up a street that had been excavated but was attempting to still function amidst the rubble (and this is when the crowd was less!):
Suhita helped me find a saree petticoat for my freshly tailored saree, and I picked up random things like earrings in the classic North Indian style to go with it. The petticoat, which is basically a floor length plum colored skirt, was about 90 cents USD.
Friday night, SIT threw us a party! It was such a good time. We had pizza from Domino's and *GASP* beer and had a dance party. Since we won't see one another for a few weeks until the end of the independent study phase is over, it was nice to let loose with everyone. We also taught Bhavna-ji and Gotham-ji flipcup, a drinking game that I can now say I have played on two continents. And they were good at it. I don't think they really understood what they were getting themselves into when we said that we wanted to teach them a game...
Molly and Nisha dressed up outside the program center before the party:
This is definitely on my list of pictures that I wish I were a part of!:
Nisha and Caroline:
Impressions... my version of Molly-ji is in the middle:
group hug :) failed attempt at a group shot, but i like it anyway:
Party bus, singing the Spice Girls at the top of our lungs:
Back home:
And this magic, is the Lic Lollee:
Saturday Molly and I went to school for our last meetings with Azim-ji before leaving for our ISPs, and then headed to Gandhi Smriti, the place where Gandhi spent his last days and the grounds upon which he was assassinated:
Leaving school - this is our fave security guard, who through Nisha told us that he wants us to print this out and give it to him:
the big white building hold the program center, and the little boy carrying bricks on his head belongs to a family that works in construction and lives in a hut directly behind where I am standing in this picture:
Ringing the World Peace Gong (or pretending to...):
Where Gandhi was shot. "Hey Ram!":
The museum was extremely well done and intimate... there were no guards, it was free, and not crowded at all. I felt like I got a good feel for his life mission and final days. Though he is both one of the most loved and most hated in India, he no doubt holds the hope of many, and played an extremely important role in India's history, the history of the world, and the entire doctrine and model of civil disobedience and nonviolent protest.
Later, we met Suhita again at Sarojini Nagar to look around a bit, and I bought a few more souvenirs. In two days of shopping, I don't think I spent more than $15 USD though I bought enough to get pretty much everyone on my list.
That night, with finally the time to commit to learning how to wear it and the necessary parts all assembled and tailored, I tried on my saree! Well, more like my host mom put it on me... but Jayoti, if you're reading this, I promise I was paying attention ;) It's a lot harder to wear than I expected, and carries some serious weight... but I am really happy with it and plan on wearing it to our final banquet at the end of the program.
For our last supper all together at their house, we had... sandwiches. I know. I couldn't handle my own excitement. With chicken salad and pickles (they weren't dill pickles, no, but they were still delicious). Thank you host parents if you're reading this, for appeasing my western food cravings, though your rice and dal rocks, Jayoti, and you know it ;)
Suhita and me, mid-laugh:
Arko's acrobatics (arkobatics?):
That night I packed like a wild woman, throwing clothes in the washer, packing up two other bags that I left at their house (should be interesting getting things home... whoops) and getting all of my stuff out of the guest room. My host dad occasionally peeked his head in the room to sing John Denver's "Leavin' on a Jet Plane" which definitely didn't help the sad situation... as soon as he got to "already I'm so lonesome.." all of us said "ahhhhhh enough!" in unison hahaha. In the morning at 7am I said goodbye to Jayoti, and even thought I was pretty sure I'd be staying with them at the end of the program, it was impossible to not let some of the waterworks fly... they have been amazing host parents, and have really involved us in their lives and let us into their world at Sarvodaya Enclave. I miss you guys and can't wait to see you in a few weeks :) I walked to get the shuttle for the airport, and Suhita came running out of the house to also say goodbye. Talk about waterworks...
And here I am in Jamkhed. At one point this week, Aura said to me that she felt "hardly like" i was "an American at all anymore," because, "well, you're just so close to me now." In addition to completely melting my heart, it made me think... I told her that I think it is less that I have dropped the American but more, on some small, small level, developed the Indian, or at least the appreciation for my Indian side.. I love India, and while I do miss home, and my family, and my friends, and Tufts, my Indian side is happy here. My Indian side dives right into food without waiting for the fork; it picks up handfuls of Holi color and smears it in my host dad's face with a laugh. It gets angry at rickshaw wallas who quote the price at three times the amount it should be to get from point A to point B, and loudly attempts to embarrass them in Hindi in front of a crowd of people. My Indian side still scoffs at injustice just like my American side would when we visit hospitals or have a guest speaker talk about the problems in this great country, but my Indian side also understands the great barriers to relief and that India runs at its own pace and on its own book of standards. When I leave, my American side will cry at the departure from adventure, but my Indian side will understand that that's the way it goes...
Love,
Laura
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